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Old 2nd April 2008, 08:17 AM   (permalink)
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Hello Mneary,

I agree with you! Hence, now building it.

Thanks for your quote.

Warm regards,
Amitraj
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Old 3rd April 2008, 06:37 AM   (permalink)
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Default Reg: Question in Maximiser

Hello Bryan,

In the maximiser ckt. the 0.1 microF capacitir (which is connected to the FET) is also connected to both the terminals of 1.5K!

There could be something wrong in my statement or could be in the image. Could you go theugh it and confirm where exactly the Cpacitor terminal is connected?

Warm regards,
Amitraj
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Old 3rd April 2008, 09:50 AM   (permalink)
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Default Reg: Probable Error in the maximiser

Hello All,

I have come up with "probable" corrections in the ckt. Diagram given for the maximiser at : http://www.voltscommissar.net/minimax/minimax.htm

1.
Acc/to the diagram the 2K trimpot is connected to the junction where 3K3, 6.2V Zener, 100K, 100pF and Pin 2 of LM311N come together.

In this case the 3K3 and 6.2V Zener junction should be separated. That means there should be a jumper which will connect Pin2, 100K and 100pF to 2K trimpot and will cutoff 3K3 and 6.2V connection. (I hope this makes clear what I want to say!!) Otherwise, pins 2 and 3 of LM311N will be shorted.

2.
Same applies to o.1microF and 1.5K connect. If 0.1 F is also connected to Pin7 of LM311N then 1.5K gets shorted.
Please let me know if I have gone wrong somewhere. Or I am getting overconfident about this.

Warm regards,
Amitraj
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Old 3rd April 2008, 10:52 AM   (permalink)
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Default Reg: Probable Error in the maximiser

3
Pin 8 and 7 are shorted through 100pF and 100K.

jumpers are required at both the junction point. i. "100pf and pin 8" & "100K & pin 8"

Please correct if anything faulty here.
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Old 4th April 2008, 08:52 AM   (permalink)
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Hiya amitraj,
Below i've ammended the schematic to show you where some lines cross they aren't connected. It is an error on schematic as usually a small raduis is put onthe line to show no connection.

revised max circuit.jpg

Cheers Bryan
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Old 5th April 2008, 12:29 AM   (permalink)
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No Bryan,
You have both inputs of the comparator shorted together.
The (-) input connects to the 3.3k resistor and the 6.2V zener diode.
The (+) input connects to the slider of the 2k trimpot, the 100k resistor and the 100pF capacitor.

At the output you have two zener diodes shorted together. One is used to limit the gate voltage to 15V and the other limits the supply (bottom of the 470 ohm resistors) when the supply is 24V.

The 0.1uF capacitor near the output should not connect to the gate of the Mosfet. It connects to the supply.

I think you have pin 8 of the comparator shorting the 1.5k load resistor.

EDIT:
Sorry Bryan,
I read your fine print.
Your dots are not connections. Usually dots are connections.
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Last edited by audioguru; 5th April 2008 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 7th April 2008, 04:18 AM   (permalink)
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Great!!!

I have also reached to the same diagram... Bryan and Audioguru thanks a lot for givng your time.

Bryan, it seems that you use dots for jumpers.

I am going to build it today. Will convey you about the results.

Warm regards,
Amitraj
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Old 7th April 2008, 06:58 PM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneary
It won't work? Why not? Maybe you forgot that brushed DC motors have inductance. The MOSFET turns on, momentarily providing a large current to the motor. The catch diode carries this large current after the MOSFET turns off. Then the MOSFET turns back on, boosting the current again.

It's really a simple switching regulator, with feedback tailored to the purpose. Maybe you should re-read the article.
OK, yeah, I'm reviewing it again and for a STALLED rotor, this design can increase the current and make it start. The stalled rotor is not acting as a motor load but simply a pure inductor, without the losses of doing work. The flyback diode maintains rotor current when the MOSFET is off, and the cap can provide higher current that the panel itself can when operated at high freq (this is not the situation where a simple parallel cap's trying to get the motor started, which would require a large cap, perhaps absurdly large).
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Old 6th May 2008, 02:28 AM   (permalink)
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Question Reg: Solar panel readings

Hello all,

How do you do?

Finaly I have built the Current Booster. Have not tested yet. I have come across following difficulty. Could somebody help me?

There are 2 solar panels - each of 60W (12V). Now when I tested one of them at around 2.00 pm in India (this is summer in India and the temparature at 2 pm is usually around 40 Degree Celsius), I read 20V output.

Now, when a variable resister of 2K (100W) was connected and readings were taken for different values, the range of output voltage across the resistor was:18.6 to 18.22.

When I measured the current flowing through it was hardly in mA. e.g. 2 mA most of the times.

Now as per the ratings the solar panel can source 5A. Could you guide me how to be confirm that the solar panel is providing this much current?

The person who sold me the panels, says that 20V output is purposefully provided instead of 12V!!!

Warm regards,
Amitraj
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Old 6th May 2008, 02:37 AM   (permalink)
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18V across 2k ohms makes a current of only 9mA.
12V across 2.4 ohms (60W) makes a current of 5A.

The solar panel must be outdoors and pointing directly at the sun at noon.
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Old 13th May 2008, 11:06 AM   (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hero999
I agree, I don't see how PMing a motor can help start a motor, if anything, it'll only make it worse.

For the capacitor idea to work, you need to give the capacitor time to charge before the motor is switched on.
It works because the motor rotor voltage is zero at zero speed. You still need a capacitor to provide the high current but the power required is reasonable.
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Old 22nd May 2008, 02:04 AM   (permalink)
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Use your solar panels to power a tesla coil, transform it back down to 12v, then rectify it, and plug an inverter in it. That should give you plenty of power.
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